Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and tourists equally celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, UNESCO honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a prestigious roster of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it enters a international community of more than four hundred metropolises across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "stands as proof of its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and dynamic culinary scene," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 cities around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this venerable city comes as little surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, lively, and eclectic city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the spotlight for what has perennially shaped its soul: an profound passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a continued conversation from waking up until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, evolved, and elevated to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, merging Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was created to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases local ingredients but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on every corner, there are small establishments and carts – little-known treasures that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a unpretentious joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and complicated. The cook beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however note that their younger generation do not want to master the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will motivate more people globally to explore these stories and travel to the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
